Lisbon has modified dramatically since I first began visiting town recurrently in 2002. On the time, within the aftermath of the Salazar years after which the Revolution, it was nonetheless reasonably rundown, with many buildings in poor restore. These have since been renovated and town has change into a extremely popular vacationer vacation spot.
It’s simple to grasp Lisbon’s recognition. Even in December the temperatures keep within the mid-to-late teenagers, and shut proximity to the Atlantic means the searingly scorching summer season temperatures of the Douro or Alentejo are uncommon.
Lisbon is a metropolis to stroll, though it is vitally hilly so it helps to be fairly match. The town is a delight, with many superbly tiled buildings, cobbled (and generally slippery!) pavements, little squares and frequent vistas throughout the Tagus estuary.
Regardless of its recognition, it’s nonetheless nice worth. The Portuguese are pleasant and welcoming, and importantly town feels protected.
Straightforward to get round
The airport is within the northern a part of town – only a quick taxi journey from the centre – or you may take the Metro which is clear and environment friendly, with the stations usually embellished with enticing tiles. There are additionally good bus providers and naturally the well-known trams.
The rechargeable Viva Viagem card, which might be purchased at Metro stations, covers all Lisbon transportation together with quick ferry crossings throughout the Tagus and trains out to the seaside resort of Cascais and as much as Sintra. Taxis are additionally plentiful and low cost.
Food and drinks
Three necessary Portuguese culinary passions are: good bread, tasty pastries and occasional. There are myriad cafés, each conventional and fashionable, the latter serving a global clientele who anticipate wifi and charging factors in addition to espresso.
Gleba is a bakery that makes a wonderful vary of sourdough breads and now has a number of shops, together with within the neighbourhoods of Alcântara, Amoreiras and Campo de Ourique.
Eating places and bars:
Seafood is a speciality in Lisbon, particularly fantastic shellfish and scrumptious grilled fish dishes. Portuguese delicacies has lengthy been formed by exterior influences, notably from its former colonies – Angola, Mozambique and Goa, as an example.
Nevertheless, over the previous decade or so, with the massive improve in international guests, the Lisbon restaurant scene has change into more and more cosmopolitan.
Corrupio
Corrupio restaurant. Credit score: Decanter / Jim Budd
An excellent place for lunch, Corrupio, within the vibrant Cais do Sodré district close to the Time Out Market (Mercado da Ribeira), is a small and casual restaurant which opened in September 2022.
The central characteristic is a horseshoe-shaped bar with stools across the counter. Chef Daniel Ferreira creates scrumptious dishes that are excellent for sharing. The wine choice is pretty quick however nicely chosen. Open from noon to midnight.
Rua da Moeda 1, F/G, 1200-275 Lisbon
+351 21 396 1585
Ibo
Views of the Tagus from upstairs at Ibo restaurant. Credit score: Ibo Restaurant.
Additionally located within the Cais do Sodré district, Ibo is a long-established and stylish restaurant with magical views over the Tagus. It opened in 2008 in a former salt warehouse. It’s best to e-book a desk upstairs, ideally by the window, the place there are nice views of ferries coming and going within the Tagus estuary.
João Pedrosa, proprietor and chef, comes from Mozambique, and this heritage is mirrored within the fusion of Mozambican and Portuguese meals.
Though the menu doesn’t change a lot, the meals is persistently good and the wine listing nicely chosen, whereas the service is skilled and attentive.
Compartimento 2, Cais do Sodré Armazem A, 1200-450 Lisbon
+351 961 332 024
Atira-te ao Rio
Night views of the Tagus from Atira-te ao Rio restaurant. Credit score: Decanter / Jim Budd.
On the south aspect of the Tagus and with nice views throughout the estuary to town, the Atira-te ao Rio restaurant is the proper spot for lunch. There are few issues higher than sitting exterior by the water’s edge on a Sunday with a calming glass of white or rosé, admiring the view and watching the boats on the river whereas considering what to eat. Summer season evenings watching the solar go down are additionally magical.
The delicacies is Portuguese with some worldwide touches and the wine listing is fairly priced. Reserving is advisable, particularly on the weekends. To get there, take the quick ferry journey from Lisbon’s Cais do Sodré district throughout the Tagus to Cacilhas.
Rua do Ginjal 69, 2800-284 Almada
+351 21 275 13 80
Taberna da Rua das Flores
Taberna da Rua das Flores. Credit score: Taberna da Rua das Flores.
Positioned simply off the Praça Luís de Camões sq., the perennial queues exterior this small, cramped restaurant are testomony to its recognition and the magic of Angola-born André Magalhães’ brilliantly creative fusion cooking. The concept is to share plenty of petiscos (tapas). No reservations and money solely, but it surely’s nonetheless nicely value any ready time to get a desk.
Rua das Flores, 103, 1200-194 Lisbon
+351 213 479 418
Antiga Camponesa
Grilled snails with mustard sauce at Antiga Camponesa. Credit score: Antiga Camponesa.
André Magalhães’ new enterprise opened in autumn 2022. In contrast to his very profitable Taberna da Rua das Flores, it is a extra spacious and trendy restaurant with 15 tables providing a extra conventional format – starters, major course and dessert – sharing or not, as you would like. The cooking is simply as creative and scrumptious, whereas the wine providing is extra in depth. Reservations and bank cards are accepted.
Rua Mal. Saldanha 25, 1200-259 Lisbon
+351 21 347 1515
BAHR
The terrace at BAHR restaurant. Credit score: BAHR.
The upmarket Bairro Alto Lodge on the Praça Luís de Camões sq. in central Lisbon was renovated in 2019. Open from breakfast by means of to dinner, BAHR is its elegant and trendy restaurant serving Portuguese delicacies in a global model. Simply adjoining to the restaurant is a rooftop terrace bar with spectacular views over the decrease a part of Lisbon and the Tagus – nice for an aperitif or digestif.
Praça Luís de Camões nº 2, 1200-243 Lisbon
+351 213 408 253
Senhor Uva
Senhor Uva restaurant. Credit score: Senhor Uva.
Near the Jardim da Estrela, Senhor Uva opened in January 2019. It began as a wine bar with meals however is now a restaurant serving extremely creative, plant-based dishes created by chef and co-owner Stéphanie Audet.
Senhor Uva specialises in natural, biodynamic and pure wines, with a wide-ranging listing primarily targeted on Europe, notably Georgia, plus just a few from Australia and the USA.
The educated employees complement the intriguing wine choice. Its different eating room – Senhor Manuel – is simply throughout the road. Guide on-line to keep away from disappointment.
Rua de Santo Amaro 66A, 1200-804 Lisbon
+351 213 960 917
Cervejaria Ramiro
Credit score: Cervejaria Ramiro
Lisbon’s most well-known shellfish restaurant, based in April 1956, is a wonderful vacation spot unfold throughout three flooring. Justifiably widespread, reserving is strongly really useful.
Avenida Almirante Reis 1 H, 1150-007 Lisbon
+351 21 885 1024
A Praça
Credit score: A Praça
Located within the district of Beato and housed in a transformed army constructing, this sensible, casual meals and wine area opened in September 2002, and is each a restaurant and retail outlet. There are cheese and charcuterie boards to share, plus excellent petiscos.
Olavo Silva Rosa is chargeable for the sturdy wine choice which options Portugal, Italy, Spain and France. Corkage charges from the retail wine retailer are imaginative – €10 for the primary bottle, €5 for the second, and no cost for the third! A Praça is reasonably out of the best way, so a taxi is the best choice to get there and again.
Television. Grilo 1, 1950-145 Lisbon
+351 912 421 223
A Casa Dos Passarinhos
Credit score: A Casa Dos Passarinhos.
Based in 1923, Passarinhos is a beautiful, conventional Portuguese restaurant on the jap fringe of Campo de Ourique. Superb grilled fish and meat is the restaurant’s mainstay, with each day altering specials.
Providing nice worth, together with fairly priced wine, Passarinhos is deservedly widespread with a largely native clientele. There are sometimes queues exterior the restaurant on Friday and Saturday evenings.
Rua Silva Carvalho 195, 1250-249 Lisbon
+351 21 388 2346
Near Lisbon:
Restaurante da Adraga
Credit score: Restaurante da Adraga
This restaurant is the one constructing at Praia da Adraga, a small, unspoilt cove simply 3km north of Cabo da Roca (40km west of Lisbon) – essentially the most westerly level of mainland Europe (this absolutely should qualify as mainland Europe’s most westerly restaurant).
Come right here for excellent shellfish – the crab is extremely really useful – to be adopted by sensible grilled fish partnered by a bottle or so of Vinho Verde. Attempt to get a desk by the window overlooking the seaside and out throughout the Atlantic.
The restaurant is understandably widespread, particularly in summer season, so finest to e-book.
Praia da Adraga, Sintra, 2705-063
+351 219 280 028
Terroso
Credit score: Terroso.
Pedro and Vitalina Marques was concerned in a well-liked restaurant and wine bar in Lisbon’s Bairro Alto. They’ve now arrange Terroso in Cascais, a seaside resort on the Tagus estuary a few 45-minute prepare journey from Lisbon.
Vitalina is a good chef, specialising in high-quality conventional Portuguese delicacies. Pedro, an expert wine taster, is entrance of home and can at all times discover fascinating wines for patrons to attempt. The restaurant is kind of small, so do e-book.
Rua do Poço Novo 17, 2750-467 Cascais
+351 21 486 2137
Non-Portuguese:
Three prime eating places that mirror Lisbon’s more and more cosmopolitan restaurant scene:
Kabuki
Credit score: Kabuki
That is the Lisbon outpost of the Kabuki Group, which opened its first restaurant in Madrid in 2000.
Kabuki Lisbon is within the renovated Ritz Galleries overlooking Edward VII Park. It opened in late 2021, was awarded a Michelin Star inside a yr, and provides high-end, beautiful Japanese meals matched by a outstanding wine listing put collectively by wine director Filipe Wang – as an example, there’s a vertical of Clos Rougeard operating from 2016 again to 2009.
Rua Castilho, nº 77- 77E, 1070-050 Lisbon
+351 212 491 683
Ruvida
Credit score: Ruvida
With its small enticing terrace, Ruvida is a pleasant Italian restaurant in Alcântara run by Valentina from Bologna and her accomplice Michel.
Valentina’s selfmade pasta may be very particular, the cooking creative and the wine listing options each Portuguese and Italian wines.
Valentina and Michel not too long ago opened Pausa & Crescente, a wine bar/café additionally in Alcântara however nearer to the Tagus. Reserving is suggested.
Praça da Armada 17, 1350-027 Lisbon
+351 21 395 0977
The Outdated Home
Credit score: The Outdated Home
This is a wonderful and extremely popular giant Chinese language restaurant within the Parque das Nações, the location of the world honest Expo 1998. I’ve loved a few of the finest Chinese language meals ever in The Outdated Home. Attempt to get a desk upstairs with views over the Tagus. Reserving is suggested, particularly on the weekends.
Rua da Pimenta 9, 1990-254 Lisbon
+351 218 969 075
Wine outlets:
Garrafeira Estado d’Alma
This carries an in depth vary of wines and spirits, together with some outdated vintages of Portuguese wines and lots of fascinating finds. It’s situated a brief stroll from Marquês de Pombal sq..
Rua Alexandre Herculano 45A, 1250-010 Lisbon
+351 21 410 5162
Garrafeira Campo de Ourique
A extremely really useful store run by the Santos household, with a big choice of primarily Portuguese wines together with some older vintages. You’ll get educated recommendation from Mafalda Santos.
Rua Tomás da Anunciação 29 A, 1350-322 Lisbon
+351 21 397 3494
Garrafeira Nacional
Based in 1927, there are three branches of this wine store – two within the Baixa district and one within the Time Out Market. Select from an in depth vary of wines and Ports, with greater than 8,000 references.
Manuel Tavares
A standard grocery and wine store on the southern finish of Rossio Sq.. Ports are a specialty right here, and it boasts classic Ports going again to no less than 1908.
Rua da Betesga 1 A & B, 1100-090 Lisbon
+351 213 424 209
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